By Dr. Henry Cheng
Botox Cosmetic™ is the trade name for medicinal Botulinum toxin type A. Botulinum is the name of a bacterium. This micro-organism produces a toxin that paralyses muscles. When used cosmetically, the toxin is injected into the skin where it paralyses the cutaneous muscle fibers thereby relaxing the skin so fine lines and wrinkles are attenuated. Restylane® and Perlane® are hylauronic acid gels injected into the skin. Hyaluronic acid works by attracting and retaining water thereby making the skin fuller, firmer and tighter. Botox™ and Restylane® injections are definitely quick fixes for established wrinkles. However they can be painful, costly, have to be done by a plastic surgeon, have potential allergic and infective complications, and last only a few months. Repeated use may also lead to a rigid and unnatural look.
URIST WRINKLE & FROWN LINE CREAM® made by Urist Cosmetics contains three amazing ingredients that help to reduce and prevent wrinkles. ARGIRELINE® has similar action to Botox™. By relaxing the skin muscle fibers, it helps to decrease wrinkle depth and eliminate fine lines. The big difference between Botox and Argireline is that the latter is absorbed through the skin and does not call for an injection. Also, the topical Argireline does not paralyse the deep facial muscles so the face will not have a stiff or rigid look, whereas Botox is injected into the deeper layers thus may affect deeper facial muscles that control expressions and smiles.
Another ingredient is palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 (MATRIXYL®). It is an amino acid that promotes the formation of collagen. Collagen is the supporting structure of the skin. When more collagen is formed, the skin will appear fuller, firmer, and tighter. Matrixyl® had been researched extensively in Spain, and the results from three different studies were presented at the 20th World Congress of Dermatology in 2002. In one study, researchers showed that Matrixyl® increased skin thickness 1.5 times faster than the control cream, without any of the inflammatory side effects commonly seen (Guttman 2002). By increasing the matrix of the skin, Matrixyl® reduces wrinkle depth, length, extent and roughness. In another study, researchers showed that Matrixyl® produced an increase in elastin and collagen levels, and they called the cream “a safe and potent alternative ….in wrinkle repair” (Stein 2002a). The third study came from Procter & Gamble Company. 92 women aged 35 to 55 years were tested in a randomized, double-blind split-face study for 14 weeks, and Matrixyl® was shown to be effective both on objective and subjective assessments (Stein 2002b).
Hyaluronic Acid is a glycosaminoglycan (mucopolysaccharide) that is no ordinary moisturizers. It is a normal component of connective tissue in the skin. Studies had been done to show that a combination of Matrixyl™, Argireline®, and hyaluronic acid works better than vitamin C cream and Retinol. Vitamin C works through its anti-oxidant action. Retinol can be quite irritating to the skin. Compared to various injections, the cream works much more gradually, but it has less potential side effects, is more economical, more convenient, and, most importantly, does not need to be injected.
If the cream is used in conjunction with electro-magnetic devices like Derma Wand or OxyLift®, results can be even more impressive. Aside from other mechanisms of actions these electro-magnetic devices enhance absorption of the face cream into the skin by several folds.
The cream and the Oxylift® device can be used at any age over 12 both for prevention and treatment of wrinkles. Heart patients and patients with pace makers are advised not to use OxyLift®.
Henry Cheng is a medical graduate of the University of London, England, and is now Natural Health Products Consultant in Cloverdale Pharmasave.
